British Billy bites into some hot cross buns

  • Published
  • By British Billy
  • 48th Fighter Wing Public Affairs
ROYAL AIR FORCE LAKENHEATH, England --  I always assumed everyone all over the world ate hot cross buns at Easter, but I discovered that it is a quintessentially British tradition. They are small festive bread buns and you are supposed to restrain yourself until Good Friday before tucking in. However, self control is so often lacking in the more gluttonous amongst us and we seem to have been consuming them for the last month or so.

Hot cross buns can be eaten warm or split, toasted with butter for breakfast, tea or a snack and when they go a bit stale, the leftovers can be made into bread and butter pudding.

No one knows for certain when the tradition began, but in 16th century England, bakers were limited by law to occasions when these special doughs could be made. Good Friday was one; 'cross buns' marked this holy day towards the end of the Lenten fast.

The rhyme, "One a penny, two a penny, hot cross buns", recalls the habit of selling them warm from baking. In the 18th century, huge quantities were produced by the Chelsea Bun House, causing large crowds to gather and a near riot to break out.

A good hot cross bun should be round, well-risen -- not square-ish and squashed -- and highly glazed, with a cross on top. This is usually made with flour and water paste, although strips of marzipan or cutting a cross into the dough are alternatives. The crumbs should be fairly pale, not too soft or sticky, and have a light flavour of sweet spices and/or candied peel and dried fruit.

In their time, both Queen Elizabeth I and Oliver Cromwell tried to ban the bun, because of their religious associations, but the will of the people prevailed.

There are other claims as to the origin of hot cross buns. Some believe people marked their bread with a cross prior to baking to ensure the devil wouldn't get at the food, while others suggest the hot cross bun originated from the Anglo-Saxon pagan sacramental cakes eaten during the ritual feast to honour their spring goddess, Eostre.

As with most foods bound to religion, the hot cross bun became associated with several superstitions. The Anglo-Saxon pagans believed that the buns would last a whole twelve months before turning mouldy and would often hang them up in the home to ward off fire and evil forces. Sailors would take hot cross buns to sea in the belief they would act as a deterrent against shipwreck, whilst farmers deemed them sufficient to protect their grain from rats. Moreover, the buns were said to possess mystical properties that could cure certain illnesses.

One thing is for sure; hot cross buns are unlikely to ever go out of fashion. As long as there are buttered hot cross buns on offer, I am sure to be licking my lips, and no doubt my paws too.

Happy Easter!